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47 Confucian academies survived the abolition of academies
  • BABO
  • 06.21.2024 01:09

Since there has been recent mention of Seowons, I am uploading information about 36 Seowons located in the south among the 47 Seowons that survived at the time of the Seowon Abolition Order, which was previously summarized in Tagaeul.
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This time, we will look into 47 academies that survived Heungseon Daewongun’s order to abolish academies. Personally, the biggest reason why I don't like Heungseon Daewongun very much is the abolition of the Confucian Academy, but there are many places that would have been really worth seeing if there had been any of the Confucian academies that were demolished at the time. If you think about it now, it's a shame.

36 of the 47 sites are located in South Korea, and many of them disappeared due to the Korean War, the archenemy of cultural assets on the Korean Peninsula. Since there is no information about the Confucian academies in North Korea, we will only introduce these 36 places.

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1. Yeongju Sosu Seowon

The first Seowon of the Joseon Dynasty. At that time, the name was Baekundongseowon, which was established by Joo Se-bung and entrusted to King Myeongjong. As it is the first seowon, the layout is unique; the educational space and worship space are arranged side by side from east to west. As expected from a seowon built in Sunheung, it enshrines Anhyang.

Originally, there was a temple called Suksusa Temple, so Buddhist cultural assets still remain. Among them, Dangganjiju was designated as a treasure.

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2. Andong Dosan Seowon

A Seowon dedicated to Toegye Yi Hwang. It was built on the site of Dosan Seodang, where Toegye trained his students, and consists of Sangdeoksa Temple, Jeongyodang Temple, and Nongunjeongsa Temple. The front yard was unintentionally raised while creating Andong Lake. The current affairs team is located across from each other.

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3. Andong Byeongsan Seowon

Located beyond the mountain behind Hahoe Village. This is a place where Seoae Ryu Seong-ryong is enshrined, and Mandaeru Pavilion overlooking the Nakdong River is very famous. The crepe myrtle flowers that bloom in the summer are beautiful, and it consists of Jondeoksa Temple and Ipcyodang Temple. The snail-shaped hut is unique.

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4. Dalseong Dodong Seowon

This is a seowon that enshrines Han Hwon-dang Kim Gyeong-pil, and like the two places above, it faces the Nakdong River. However, Suwollu Pavilion in front was added in the 19th century, and this pavilion blocks the view of the Nakdong River. It consists of a shrine and a central hall.

The door to the shrine is called Hwanjumun, and it has a unique sloping roof. If you look here and there in Seowon, you will find unique stone structures and sculptures, which are fun to look at. Overall, it has a very cute feel, so I personally like it the most among the seowons.

Now that the tunnel has been opened, there is no need to go over it, but until recently, you had to go over Daramjae to get there. The view of Dodong Seowon and Nakdong River from the top of Dharamjae is beautiful, so be sure to visit.

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5. Oksan Seowon, Gyeongju

A place where Hoejae Lee Eon-jeok is enshrined. There is an account with Dokrakdang where Hoejae lived nearby. It consists of a shrine, Chainmyo, Guindang, a lecture space, and Mubyeonru, a pavilion. Mubyeonru has a unique shape with a gable roof or a hip roof on both sides. The writing on the Oksan Seowon signboard is the representative work of Chusa Kim Jeong-hee.

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6. Hamyang Namgyeseowon

This is a seowon that enshrines Ildu Jeong Yeo-chang, and his tomb is located on the mountain behind the adjacent Seungansa Temple site. There are buildings such as a shrine, Myeongryundang, and Bongsuru. Uniquely, the writing of Namgye Seowon was written separately into Namgye/Seowon, probably taking into account the characteristic of having 4 spaces on the front. Unlike the previous Seowons, it is unique in that it has an open front.

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7. Jangseong Pilam Seowon

This is a seowon dedicated to King Haseo Kim In-hu, and it is the only one of the two surviving academies in the Jeonnam region, along with Pochungsa Temple in Gwangju. It consists of Udong Temple, Cheongjeoldang, and Hwakyeonru.

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8. Jeongeup Museongseowon

A place where Choi Chi-won, a nobleman, and Shinjam, an official during the mid-Joseon Dynasty, are enshrined. It contains a shrine, Myeongryundang, and Hyeongaru, and the monument is located on the west side. The old zelkova tree in the driveway is impressive.

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9. Nonsan Donam Seowon

This is a seowon where Kim Jang-saeng was enshrined, and later Kim Jip, Song Jun-gil, and Song Si-yeol were additionally enshrined. Although it is not in its original location, it was moved to its current location in the late Joseon Dynasty. Eungdodang, above, is an auditorium building that remained on the site of the old Seowon, and was moved to its current location in 1971. Therefore, the location is somewhat ambiguous. Although it is far from the central axis, it attracts attention as it is the largest building in the premises. Uniquely, eyebrow roofs are installed on both sides.

The above 9 places were registered as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2019 as [Korean Seowon].

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10. Nonsan Nogang Seowon

This is a seowon where Palsong Yunhwang is enshrined, and later Soron figures from the Chungcheong region were additionally worshiped. The auditorium building is very similar to Eungdodang in Donam Seowon, and it seems to show the magnanimity of architecture in the Chungcheong region well. Being located at the highest point in town gives this feeling of extravagance.

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11. Gumi Geumoh Seowon

This is a seowon dedicated to Yaeun Giljae, and unlike previous academies, it was built on a site with a very steep slope. It consists of Sanghyeonmyo Shrine, Jeonghakdang, and Eupcheongnu, and these buildings were recently designated as treasures. It tends to be less well-known than other academies in the Gyeongbuk region, but when you stand here, you can get the impression that you are commanding the plains around Seonsan.

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12. Changjeolsa Temple in Yeongwol

This is a shrine located right below Jangneung, the tomb of Danjong in Yeongwol, and is dedicated to the 10 loyal subjects killed by King Sejo. There are 10 of them, including Park Paeng-nyeon, Seong Sam-moon, Lee Gae, Yoo Seong-won, Ha Hae-ji, Yu Eung-bu, and among the raw six gods, Kim Si-seup and Nam Hyo-on, Eom Heung-do, and Park Sim-moon. It is the largest shrine in Gangwon-do and the main gate, Daegeonru, is also large in size.

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13. Yongin Simgokseowon Confucian Academy

Jeongam Seowon where Jo Gwang-jo is enshrined. Across the street is Jo Gwang-jo's grave, and within the premises is a 500-year-old zelkova tree that is said to have been planted by Jo Gwang-jo.

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14. Chungnyeolsa Temple in Tongyeong

A shrine dedicated to Admiral Yi Sun-sin. It was founded by order of King Seonjo, and since then, naval commanders have held ancestral rites in the spring and fall. A 300-year-old camellia tree grows within the premises, and there are many monuments.

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15. Sangju Okdong Seowon

This is a seowon dedicated to Bangchon Hwanghee, located at the foot of Baekhwasan Mountain on the road from Sangju to Yeongdong. Although it is a seowon, its educational function has been weakened, so there is no east or study hall. It consists of Gyeongdeoksa Temple, Onhwidang, and Cheongwolru. The door was locked when I visited, so check before visiting.

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16. Yeoju Ganghansa Temple

A seowon that enshrined Uam Song Si-yeol. Also called Daerosa Temple, it is located in the center of downtown Yeoju. In the flat area, the typical layout of a cat-and-peat is not revealed, but there is a division of space. It is said that in the past, Song Si-yeol reflected on his thoughts while looking at Yeongneung, the tomb of King Hyojong, who promoted the Northern Expedition, and it is said that King Jeongjo, who visited Yeongneung, heard this story and established a strong temple. Therefore, the shrine of Kanghansa Temple faces west, where Yeongneung is located.

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17. Anseong Deokbong Seowon

A seowon in memory of Oh Du-in, who defended Queen Inhyeon during the Gisashahwa period and died during exile. It is composed of Deokbongsawoo and Justice Party. Several large juniper trees grow within the premises.

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18. Gimpo Ujeoseowon

Seowon in memory of Jo Heon, the governor of Tongjin County during the King Seonjo Dynasty. It consists of Munyeolsa Temple and Lee Taekdang, and a memorial monument to Jo Heon remains within the premises.

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19. Ganghwa Chungnyeolsa Temple

A shrine commemorating those who died during the Manchu War and Shinmi Yangyo, including Kim Sang-yong. During the Manchu War, Kim Sang-yong, unlike King Injo's party, went to Ganghwa to escort members of the royal family, but when it fell, he exploded gunpowder and died. Only the memorial space remains.

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20. Cheongju Pyochungsa Temple

A shrine commemorating Lee Bong-sang, Nam Yeon-nyeon, and Hong Lim, who died fighting against Lee In-jwa during his rebellion. It was located within the town castle, but was later moved to its current location during the Japanese colonial period. Also called Samchungsa Temple.

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21. Gwangju Pochungsa Temple

A shrine dedicated to Go Gyeong-myeong, his father, Yoo Peng-ro, and An Yeong, who fought leading the volunteer soldiers in the Honam region during the Japanese invasions of Korea. It was greatly renovated in the 1980s and huge buildings were built, but unlike the places mentioned later, the original shrine is well preserved in its original location.

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22. Gyeongju Seoak Seowon

A seowon that enshrines Kim Yu-shin, Choi Chi-won, and Seol-chong. It is located right next to the Seoak-dong Ancient Tombs where King Muyeol's tomb is located, but its presence is minimal due to its popularity. I understand that this place is not open to the public during normal times.

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23. Sangju Heungam Seowon

Dongchundang Seowon, which enshrines Song Jun-gil. It is located in the northwest of downtown Sangju and consists of Heungamsa Temple and Jipsudang.

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24. Pocheon Yongyeon Seowon

Seowon where Lee Deok-hyeong and Gyeong Gyeong are enshrined. During the Korean War, all buildings except the shrine were burned down. It seems fortunate that the shrine survived even though it was in Pocheon.

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25. Gwangju (Gyeonggi) Hyeonjeolsa Temple

This is a shrine located within Namhansanseong Fortress. It is a seowon that honors the Three Scholars: Hong Ik-han, Yunjip, and Oh Dal-je. Samhaksa refers to the three people who opposed the reconciliation between Cheong and Guwa during the Byeongjahoran period. The structure is simple, with only the shrine, east building, and study remaining.

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26. Buyeo Changnyeolsa Temple

This is also a shrine that enshrines the Samhaksa. It is equipped with a shrine and an auditorium.

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27. Jinju Changnyeolsa Temple

A shrine that commemorates the 39 people who died in the Battle of Jinju Castle during the Japanese invasions of Korea. Originally, Kim Cheon-il, Hwang Jin, and Choi Gyeong-hoe were enshrined, but when Chungminsa Temple was demolished due to the abolition of Confucian academies, General Kim Si-min was additionally enshrined.

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28. Geochang Pochungsa Temple

A shrine that enshrines Lee Sul-won, who died during the rebellion of King Yeongjo Lee In-jwa. The main gate tower is unique in that it has a stepped corridor on the left.

These are the academies that survived the Korean War.
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29. Cheorwon Chungnyeolsa Temple

A seowon that enshrined Hong Myeong-gu and others who made great contributions during the Manchu War. Because of its location, it was burned down during the Korean War but rebuilt in 1998. The Monument to Chungryeol, Hong Myeong-gu, and the Monument to the Battle of Yurim remain.

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30. Cheorwon Pochungsa Temple

A shrine dedicated to General Kim Eung-ha of Liaodongbaek, who died during a battle with Later Jin in the 11th year of King Gwanghaegun’s reign. Due to the nature of Cheorwon, there is nothing left as it was completely burned down, and there is Kim Eung-ha's tombstone at the entrance. The size of the tombstone is quite large.

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31. Paju bankruptcy petition

A seowon that enshrines Seonghon’s family and Baek In-geol. Located in Papyeong, this place also disappeared during the Korean War. Only the shrine was restored in 1966.

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32. Nogang Seowon, Uijeongbu

A seowon in memory of Park Tae-bo, who opposed the dethronement of Queen Inhyeon and died during exile. The original location is said to have been west of the tomb of the six gods, but it was moved to its current location after being destroyed by fire during the Korean War.

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33. Hanam Sachungseowon

This is a seowon that enshrines the four ministers who died during the Sinim Oksa period: Kim Chang-jip, Lee Yi-myeong, Lee Geon-myeong, and Jo Tae-chae. Since the Sinimoksa was an incident that occurred when the Soron slandered the Noron, it came and went several times due to political strife. It was originally located in Yongsan, but during the Japanese colonial period, the site was incorporated as railroad land and moved to Bogwang-dong. However, it was destroyed during the Korean War and relocated to Hanam in 1968.

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34. Busan Chungnyeolsa Temple

A shrine that commemorates those who died during the Japanese invasions of Korea. Originally, it was Songgongsa Temple in honor of Song Sang-hyeon, the governor of Dongrae, but later several additional figures were enshrined there. During the Japanese colonial period, ancestral rites were discontinued and fell into decline, but was greatly overhauled in the 1970s.

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35. Chungnyeolsa Temple, Chungju

A shrine honoring Chungmin-gong Lim Gyeong-eop. Im Gyeong-eop was a general who made great contributions during the Yi Gwal Rebellion and was captured while confronting Cheong. Afterwards, he was implicated in the Sim Ji-won rebellion and suffered an unjust death.

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36. Goyang Chungjangsa Temple

This is a shrine dedicated to General Kwon Yul, who led the Battle of Haengju, and is located within Haengjusanseong Fortress. Also called Qigong Temple, it was rebuilt in 1970 after being destroyed by fire during the Korean War.

We looked at 36 Seowons like this, and while there are some that remain well, such as Byeongsan Seowon and Dodong Seowon, there are also some that have undergone ridiculous 'reconstruction', such as the ones below.
I also found out about several places for the first time while researching this time, so I am reflecting greatly.

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